A Case for Avoiding the Wine Rating Mousetrap

Leave it up to an expert on randomness and a statistician turned winemaker to make an astonishing case that wine ratings are inconsistent and unreliable.  The debate on ratings value has been legitimately extended by a couple of primary and secondary research studies presented by Robert Hodgson in the Journal of Wine Economics.  Hodgson’s work and conversations with a few high profile wine critics and winemakers were nicely organized in a recent Wall Street Journal article entitled “A Hint of Hype, A Taste of Illusion.”  And this time, maligning rating reliability is not aimed at any one system or critic, but more fully at the fundamental inconsistency and susceptibility of the human brain when it comes to sensory interpretation.

Hodgson’s research renders degrees of satisfaction and validation that my personal sensibility for ignoring marginal point differences in wine reviews has not left anything on the table.  I have attempted to uphold a pattern for discussing wines in this blog and elsewhere that sidesteps numbers and avoids drawing concrete lines in the sand.  Without self-contradiction, I also respect the 100 pont scale and other numerically deployed systems that are comfortable approaches for other reviewers because they provide a general indication of how much a reviewer likes or dislikes a wine.  I look at a 96 and 92 point rating knowing anyone could appreciate either one over the other. 

Hodgson ran a conclusive experiment over four different years with panels of 70 judges from the California State Fair Wine Competition.  He served them 100 wines over a few day period employing the same blind tasting rigors they are subject to in the actual competition.  But in his study, every wine was presented to each judge three different times from the same bottle to be judged and awarded point scores.  The findings are profound, but not surprising:

The judges’ wine ratings typically varied by ±4 points on a standard ratings scale running from 80 to 100. A wine rated 91 on one tasting would often be rated an 87 or 95 on the next. Some of the judges did much worse, and only about one in 10 regularly rated the same wine within a range of ±2 points. …..the judges whose ratings were most consistent in any given year landed in the middle of the pack in other years, suggesting that their consistent performance that year had simply been due to chance.

It is my personal experience that the  same bottle of wine will often taste different even within reasonably tight windows of time.  Open vs. blind tastings of the wine will provide different results and side by side tasting with other peer group wines can also alter perception.  Drinking the same wine in different moods, at different times of the day, with varied aeration periods, in different quantities and environments all change interpretations and conclusions of quality. 

Hodgson went further and studied track records for specific wines’ after submitting to judging across several contests.  His study showed that a wine’s opportunity for winning a gold medal is statistically equal to random chance:

…..he made a bar graph of the number of wines winning 0, 1, 2, etc. gold medals in those competitions. The graph was nearly identical to the one you’d get if you simply made five flips of a coin weighted to land on heads with a probability of 9%. The distribution of medals, he wrote, “mirrors what might be expected should a gold medal be awarded by chance alone.

I am flabbergasted with the specificity and range of flavors promulgated by the umpteen thousands of reviewers, professional and otherwise, offering their opinions about specific wine characteristics in print, online, and in person.  Not meaning to single out this recent example review by a reliably experienced and respected wine writer and founder of Palate Press, David Honig, I bring reference to it  only as representation of a widely embraced genre of reviews.  While it most surely was Honig’s honest experience I (1) can almost guarantee these will not be my specific flavor perceptions and (2) get the feeling it leans toward “base covering” for the multiple impressions that came and went during the tasting experience:

 This comes at you [in]waves of flavor, starting with blackberries, coffee and plums. Fruits sweeten on the mid-palate, adding some blueberry to the blackberry. The espresso changes to unsweetened cocoa. Leather shows up at the end of the mid-palate and lingers with black fruit on the finish

A  favored review style  presented by one wine writer , The Brooklyn Wine Guy, leans toward broad, sensory reactions combined with a dominant flavor characteristic or two, weaving in the context of his tasting experience to transmit a conclusion that is easier to embrace.  Here is one example review:

Levi and I both had this as 1st choice during the tasting. I thought it clearly stood out above the rest – it was completely harmonious, subtly quite intense, and very beautiful. The nose was spicy with pomegranate fruit, very elegant, there was good acidity, and great length – the floral finish really lingered in my nostrils. The funny thing is, everyone agreed that this wine fell off over the course of the evening, and was perhaps overshadowed rather than enhanced by our dinner (biryani-style rice with beef, watermelon radishes, green salad).

Mlodinow references a 1996 study presented in the Journal of Experimental Psychology that predates Hodgson’s work and offers up a current example that suggests ignoring the very specific flavor nuance claims of other enthusiasts and professional critics alike:

….. a 1996 study in the Journal of Experimental Psychology showed that even flavor-trained professionals cannot reliably identify more than three or four components in a mixture, although wine critics regularly report tasting six or more. There are eight in this description, from The Wine News, as quoted on wine.com, of a Silverado Limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 that sells for more than $100 a bottle: “Dusty, chalky scents followed by mint, plum, tobacco and leather. Tasty cherry with smoky oak accents…” Another publication, The Wine Advocate, describes a wine as having “promising aromas of lavender, roasted herbs, blueberries, and black currants.” What is striking about this pair of descriptions is that, although they are very different, they are descriptions of the same Cabernet. One taster lists eight flavors and scents, the other four, and not one of them coincide.

So much of the criticism on this subject to date has been directed at one or another critic’s track record or performance against self-proclaimed superiority.  This was in evidence in Tyler Colman’s recent post about the Robert Parker lead 2005 Executive Wine Seminar tasting which Mlodinow also references in his WSJ piece and I wrote about here in a post entitled “A Roadside Bomb.”   Even the most heralded wine critic of our time will have point variation and wide swings in perception about wines when subjected to blind tastings of the same wines multiple times.

The Mlodinow piece was refreshing in not picking on one system over another and for not maligning specific critics or the commercial realities inherent in reviewing and selling wine.  Instead, it helped me and others feel good about the favored strategy of connecting with educated wine friends, sellers, and critics that align with our personal style preferences to taste what they recommend.   So, it’s safe to go back in the water to taste everything you can, to make your own decisions about what you enjoy, while staying clear of the rating/review mousetrap in defense of the lurking influences to drink something you simply don’t like or understand.

  • http://palatepress.com David Honig

    I don’t feel hurt or singled out at all. Indeed, my description was most certainly a description of the multiple impressions I experienced, and I would not expect others to have an identical experience. One of the advantages of the many voices on the web is that everybody can find a palate that matches their own. If you find you experience wine in a manner similar to me, my reviews will have great value for you. If you find that we like the same things, even if we describe them differently, they still have value. If, on the other hand, we like different things, keep looking for a palate that will ably guide your own.

    The real problem arises, not when one palate differs from another, but when a person claims to be THE palate, or who believes they can assign a very personal numbers to a bottle of wine, and expect the number to work for everybody.

    In a way, this is a perfect example of the amazing strength of the expanding wine media world. With just a little experimentation, everybody can find a palate or palates that will be a valuable guide through the forest of bottles growing from wine shelves everywhere. Compare that to a person (like myself) who simply does not agree with the “Big Boys,” and finds themselves wondering if something is wrong with them, and getting discouraged, rather than simply saying to themselves, “hey, maybe I just like different things.”

    This is a great article, and I appreciate the thought that went into it. You can see by the lack of points on the review you quoted that I really agree with the conclusion that the precision of numbers is really an illusion. All an honest reviewer can do is offer their own perceptions, and invite those who experience wine in a similar manner to join them for the ride.

  • http://winezag.wordpress.com adamjapko

    David, I am in agreement that the best path is to discover aligned and EDUCATED palates. The social web has, as you say, offered tons of options to pick through.

    The distinction between the downside aspects of the “big boys” and the multitude of reviewers blogging away every day is not that clear cut though. There are some very high profile bloggers that not only don’t align with my taste preference, but have absolutely no idea what they are talking about.

    They can be as misleading and unhelpful as some of the self proclaimed leaders of the established wine press. Both are scary.

  • http://palatepress.com David Honig

    Adam- so very true. You need but participate in one on-line tasting to see what you are talking about. There is so much enthusiasm for being part of the club that everything is wonderful. Sometimes I wonder if we’re all tasting the same wine.

    The same, unfortunately, can be said of some things found in print.

    Ultimately, the key is to (a) taste a lot of different wines, and (b) find people who not just align with your palate, but have credibility. The first step should be to look for something other than glowing reviews. If everything, from Yquem to Smiling Wallabee is a 97 or higher, well, ignore them.

    And the best advice of all, really, is to find a local retailer who cares about wine and customers. They will always be your best resource. We ran a story about that this week, and it really hit home to me.

  • http://www.viralhousingfix.com Dan McCarthy

    Any sensory experience is relative, not absolute. The only way to communicate the experience is to create a context for who you are, where you are and what you are experiencing. Taste becomes a extension of the broader context.

    The database-driven approach to wine rating is a legacy of a fairly limited structure for distributing information and establishing a level of quality in a marketplace. The wine industry naturally leveraged these ratings to increase perceptions of value, create new approaches to pricing and product stratification, and ultimately to expand the market substantially with new product, new channels and new sensations, validated within a fairly structured context for ratings.

    This new world of extended networks of social connections — facilitated by the web and extending the sociability of the shared passion of wine enthusiasts — should ultimately diminish the number rankings of the wine experts. If I come into a store knowing that someone in my network spoke highly about a new wine and ask for it specifically, I’ve created an entirely different relationship with the wine retailer, and I’m building from my personal knowledge and relationships.

    Wine is ultimately experienced, and the exploration is truly personal. Any research that helps to free people from the tyranny of ratings and open them to the sharing of experience is a useful tool.

  • Cy Caine

    Interesting take Adam. I wondered what you would sat about the recent WSJ article. Now I know!

  • Pingback: Tongue & Cheek » Wine Decanted: ignore the misconceptions, drink more wine

  • Pingback: eminem songs videos

  • Pingback: eminem songs list