Noma Copenhagen 2/20/13 Playlist


Noma is Copenhagen, Copenhagen is Noma. They are intertwined the way musicians reflect root and spontaneous influences. For us, we are in the middle of both; five days of frosty, windswept, Nordic Copenhagen and two meals at its geographic mirror called Noma.  All of it feels severe and subtle, cozy and edgy, intellectual yet simple, bare but rich, soothing while cutting.  Wintertime Noma and Copenhagen emit chords that are both skin deep and penetrating to the core.  It all takes time to process.

Noma EntryWhen I used to go to Grateful Dead shows, they were universally defined the day after by setlists, and for years forward through holistic reflection.  Friends, it will take some days to embody and then reflect upon Noma beyond the ingredients and details that make dining at Noma unlike anything else that even the most ardent and hardened foodie will experience anywhere else.  My two boys, both in the middle of their own Copenhagen and Noma immersions, began verbalizing some personally core processing table-side at Noma last night.  They have agreed to reflect, as I am compelled to, and share some short essays here in the coming days.

But like the morning after Dead shows, fans and friends that could not make the event want something, anything that puts them in the concert hall next to you, some one dimensional reflection that can be universally agreed upon. While we promise to offer deeper reflections the mysterious melodies made inside this simple Danish waterfront building demand, just for those that need to know, what follows are letters and words that add up to the intoxicating Noma playlist from February 20 in Copenhagen.

Of course, the wines first:

*** 2011 Veyder Malberg Grüner Veltliner Hochrain, Wachau

***** 2007 Clos Rougeard Saumur Blanc Brézè, Loire

**** 2010 Moric (Roland Velich) Blaufränkisch Reserve, Eisenstadt-Burgenland

Now, the table food:

Nordic coconut

(it’s a whole raw potato, no coconuts in Denmark-onion straw to drink mystery milk) 

Malt flatbread and juniper

Moss and cep

Crispy pork skin and black currant

Cheese cookie, rocket and stems

Dried carrot and sorrel

Pickled and smoked quail’s egg

Frozen cod liver and caramelized milk

Æbleskiver and muikko

Leek and cod roe

Fresh milk curd and blueberry preserves

Brown crab, egg yolk, and herbs

Onion and fermented pears

Beets and plums

Califlower and pine, cream and horseradish

Pike perch and cabbages, verbena and dill

Grilled fish head

Wild duck and pear, kale and beech leaves

Gammel Dansk

Brown cheese and sloe berries

Noma Bar Table

Today Copenhagen, tomorrow Noma lunch, more on the entire fabric soon!