Go ahead and excuse yourself if just the mere thought of Beaujolais’ currently released 2011 vintage does not generate anticipation nor enthusiasm. Burgundy’s neighboring Beaujolais region developed its regional brand through decades of proliferating simple, thin, early released, confection tinged quaffing juice as Nouveau Beaujolais. While Nouveau raged with palates willing to overlook queer and immature […]
Noma: New Normal In Perfect Dining
It is important to walk to Noma over city bridges and along waterfront streets to embrace Copenhagen’s bone chilling winter. February Noma meals are miraculously conceived outdoors; natural bounties harvested, pickled, smoked, or dried in step with a harsh Scandinavian winter calendar. Only then are they skillfully nurtured into a series of intellectually compelling courses […]
Noma Copenhagen 2/20/13 Playlist
Noma is Copenhagen, Copenhagen is Noma. They are intertwined the way musicians reflect root and spontaneous influences. For us, we are in the middle of both; five days of frosty, windswept, Nordic Copenhagen and two meals at its geographic mirror called Noma. All of it feels severe and subtle, cozy and edgy, intellectual yet simple, […]
Amsterdam Wine and Food
While food and wine still do not rank as keywords for Amsterdam’s travel websites, it is time to cut the canal city some slack. Visiting Amsterdam as a young man in the 1980’s and 90’s conjured immersive travel images of great contrast to the Amsterdam we experienced this weekend. While our first day was reserved for […]
Three Top California Cabernets and Taste Buds
Thirty five of us climbed a stairway to our balcony seating perched above Cole’s Chop House’s main dining room in downtown Napa. The wine service table was crowded with a military style line up of thirty bottles of three different California Cabernets; an admittedly and deliberately ignored wine category since a self-imposed hard stop in […]
Kathryn Kennedy and California Wine
Much of the criticism aimed at California wines’ big style and bulging price tags is routinely sidestepped in old world wine producing regions. Although the extent of this is up for debate…history, subsidy, tradition, terroir, appellation controls, experience, and older vineyards form layers of insulation that restrain old world vignerons from the temptations of market […]
Baudry Chinon Crowns Cabernet Franc
Do not feel bad for Cabernet Franc. Humbly earning the majority of its notoriety in a supporting Bordeaux role, it lays tucked underneath Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot dominant blends in the land of regal growths. Moving west in search of greater opportunity, Cabernet Franc is planted and bottled all by its lonesome self from Long […]
Brovia Barolo Cures Wine Absurdity
When you get serious about wine, humorous elements popping up on the edges of its universe can seem absurd. By serious, I don’t mean snobby seriousness, but instead serious appreciation. Take this weekend for example. Sixteen of us blind tasted these 2008 Brovia Barolos. They are all beautiful, significant, complex, educational, mysterious beings that make […]
Blind Wine Tasting and Coke
During the final week of every “old” year I head to the same, sun scorched lazy Puerto Rico beach to give my peripatetic brain enough space to subconsciously prioritize and ponder only the most important issues. Blind wine tasting made the cut this year, triggered by some catch up reading of Malcolm Gladwell’s bestseller Blink. If […]
Life of Wine
How can fine wine and all its inherent trappings be so extraordinarily compelling? It is a fair question, don’t you think? Archaeological evidence from Iran’s mountains suggests wine production and consumption have remained perpetual threads in our human fabric for 5,100 years; as if humans need wine. What about fermented grape juice makes it so […]
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